I never went to Harvey’s Marco Pierre White’s iconic restaurant on Wandsworth Common but for anyone living in and around Wandsworth, Chez Bruce, the restaurant that’s there now, everyone I know goes to and talks about. It’s a wonderful restaurant, that’s partly I think, despite it’s excellent and hard fought for reputation for fine dining, people secretly return to hoping (and longing for) a taste of what came before.
The chatter etched in the walls of what Marco Pierre White created from Jan 1987- Aug 1993 alongside his motley crew of aspiring gastronomic misfits the most notable amongst them Gordon Ramsey, still resonates loudly amongst locals.
The iconic restaurant was a joint venture between legendary chef Marco Pierre White and restaurateur Nigel Platts-Martin. It closed in late summer 1993 when White chose to leave the venue to seek a larger premises at the Hyde Park Hotel, allowing him to expand his kitchen and successfully pursue his third Michelin star. And there’s not a person living in Wandsworth who hasn’t heard the stories and shared there own if they were lucky enough to enjoy life around that restaurant in those 6 short years from inception to closure when Marco Pierre White changed everything about how British Food was seen globally, becoming the first and youngest British chef to ever be recognised and awarded the prestigious Michelin star. And not hailing from a classically trained background, a famous gastronomic family and heritage but a council estate in Leeds.
How Gordon Ramsay, co owner of TV production company Studio Ramsay, got Marco Pierre White, now a self confessed recluse who returned his three Michelin stars back to Michelin a first ever, awarded to his restaurant the Oak Room, when he decided to retire in 1999, and Heston Blumenthal globally renowned chef and owner at the Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire, together for a meal on camera at Carbone another must visit restaurant for foodies I have no idea but it made for an absolutely captivating and scintillating watch in three binge worthy episodes.
I absolutely loved it. The best TV I’ve seen in ages.
Gordon Ramsay, co owner and founder who serves as president and creative driver for the studio's culinary and lifestyle programming knew the story of the forty year love hate relationship between the genius that is White (the great white) and Ramsay (Boy as White refers to him still today) and twenty year feud would make dramatic TV if he could get the three of them around a table. The menu in the concluding episode, a starter of tagliatelle and oysters from Marco, a dessert of citrus yoghurt from Heston (the mediator) and main of pigeon from Gordon. Three career defining dishes brought together to create the ultimate lunch menu.
Fox Entertainment must have been delighted the co owner that acquired a 100% stake in Ramsay's previous iteration of the company (which was formerly partnered with All3Media) in August 2021 to form the joint venture.
The premise of the story tracks the rise to fame of Marco Pierre White, Ramsay shares the story of how he went to work for him at Harvey’s and the equally gruelling and mesmerizing internship he received under the tutelage of his friend, boss, mentor and subsequent rival and enemy, Marco.
The story unfolds, revealing exquisite archival photography of a moment in time when three chefs from poor council house backgrounds took on the global culinary establishment and emerged triumphant. Think gladiators in the Roman colosseum so fearless and valiant nothing could stop them, they’d kill a lion and serve it up if they had to, an idea actually realised when an image of Marco with Gordon’s head on a silver platter appeared on the front cover of the Sunday Times Magazine.
I could write and write about the anecdotes revealed in the triumphant series but better you watch it for yourself.
Interestingly it is Marco Pierre White who still, after everything, emerges the victor I think at the ultimate lunch at Carbonne.
As Marcus Waring predicted beforehand there would be a lot of dick swinging at the table. And there was for sure, but it was Ramsay for me who came off as the wounded soldier even though for many he would be seen as the most accomplished and successful of the three, today.
No it was the legend, even now at 64, who hung up his stripy pinny in 1999 who reigns supreme. Some people have absolutely nothing to prove and the program made us want to go and check out his new venture Rudloe Arms, a small boutique hotel in 12 acres in Wiltshire where apparently he hides out. Not in the kitchen anymore but who knows he might just stir your sauce if you are very very lucky.